Squalane is one of those ingredients that, at first glance, don't attract attention. It has no smell, no color, doesn't sound exotic, yet for years it has remained one of the most valued emollients in modern cosmetology.
Interestingly, its story begins not in a laboratory, but in... human skin biology. Squalane is a stable form of a compound that naturally occurs in sebum – squalene. This is why it so perfectly "fits" the skin's needs and is considered one of the most biocompatible lipids used in cosmetics.
From squalene to squalane – a small change, a big difference
To understand how squalane works, it’s worth starting with its natural counterpart – squalene. It is an unsaturated lipid hydrocarbon (triterpene) naturally present in human sebum, playing a crucial role in maintaining skin elasticity and reducing transepidermal water loss. However, its molecule contains numerous C=C double bonds, which give it high chemical reactivity.
It is these double bonds that are crucial to understanding the difference between squalene and squalane. In cosmetic production, squalene undergoes a hydrogenation reaction, meaning the addition of hydrogen molecules (H₂) in the presence of a catalyst, most often nickel or platinum. As a result of this reaction, all double bonds in the molecule become "saturated," leading to the conversion of squalene into squalane – a completely saturated compound, and thus much more chemically stable.
This seemingly minor structural change has significant practical importance. Squalene, as an unsaturated compound, easily undergoes oxidation processes under the influence of oxygen and light, leading to the formation of unstable by-products. Squalane, being free of double bonds, is resistant to oxidation, allowing it to retain its properties for a long time and be safely used in cosmetic formulations.
From shark to plants – the evolution of squalane sources
For many years, the main source of squalane was shark liver, which today has been almost entirely replaced by plant sources. Currently, it is primarily obtained from olives, sugarcane, or amaranth, making it an ingredient consistent with the trend of sustainable cosmetology.
Plant-derived squalane has become a standard in modern skincare formulations, combining high skin biocompatibility with ethical and renewable sourcing.
Biocompatibility that makes a difference
Squalane belongs to the group of light emollients, meaning it does not create a heavy, occlusive layer on the skin's surface, but subtly integrates with the epidermal lipids. This supports the hydrolipidic barrier without a heavy or sticky feel.
Its key feature is high skin biocompatibility – structurally, it resembles natural sebum lipids, which means it "cooperates" with the skin rather than acting as a foreign body. This makes it well tolerated even by sensitive, reactive, and oily skin types.
Support for the skin's hydrolipidic barrier
One of the most important areas of squalane's action is supporting the skin's protective barrier. The hydrolipidic layer plays a crucial role in reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and protecting against external factors.
Squalane, as a lipid with very good skin compatibility, helps stabilize this barrier while improving its elasticity and "fluidity." As a result, the skin becomes more resistant to dryness, while maintaining softness and comfort.
Comfort and softness in one formula
Although squalane is not a humectant (it does not directly bind water), its action indirectly affects the skin's hydration level. By reducing water loss from the epidermis, it helps maintain its optimal level.
Additionally, its light, silky texture instantly improves the feeling of skin smoothness, without any greasiness. This is why it is often used in "soft focus" products, which smooth and brighten the skin.
Squalane in reactive skin care
One of squalane's greatest advantages is its exceptionally high tolerance. It does not exhibit irritating potential and does not disrupt the skin's microbiome balance, making it safe even for very reactive skin.
What's more, thanks to its light structure, it does not clog pores, so it also works well in the care of combination and oily skin, where the balance between hydration and the lightness of the formula is crucial.
Skin comfort in practice
In modern cosmetology, there is increasing talk not only of hydration or regeneration, but also of noticeable skin comfort. Squalane fits this trend exceptionally well.
It provides an immediate feeling of softness and smoothness, while not disturbing the skin's natural functions. One could say it acts more like a "fit" than an intervention – it supports what the skin already naturally does.
You can find squalane in the following creams: Miorelaxant Magic Ultimate Anti-Wrinkle, Eye cream, Rich cream, and in the Gold mask.
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Kim, S.K. and Karadeniz, F. (2012) ‘Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane’, Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, 65, pp. 223–233. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-416003-3.00014-7
Couvreur, P. and Reddy, H. (2009) ‘Squalene: a natural triterpene for use in disease management and therapy’, Advanced Drug Delivery Reviews, 61(15), pp. 1412–1426. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.addr.2009.09.005
