Aescin – an extraordinary active ingredient from horse chestnut trees
Horse chestnut trees originate from Asia. They were brought to Poland in the 16th century during the reign of Stephen Báthory. In medicine, besides seeds, the leaves, bark, and flowers of the horse chestnut are also used. The first mentions in literature regarding the medicinal use of aescin appeared at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries. Aescin is not a single specific molecule but a mixture of triterpene saponins, mainly obtained from the seeds and bark of the common horse chestnut tree (Aesculus hippocastanum L.) — this is where its highest concentration is found. It is this combination of compounds, known for years in medicine and cosmetics, that is responsible for its anti-edematous, anti-inflammatory, and blood vessel-strengthening effects.
How does aescin work?
The most well-known effect of aescin is its anti-edematous and draining action. Aescin improves capillary permeability, reduces fluid leakage into tissues, and supports lymph circulation. Aescin helps with puffy eyes, known as "undereye bags," a feeling of heavy legs, or swelling. Scientific studies confirm that aescin inhibits inflammation and reduces swelling (including post-traumatic and postoperative) by sealing blood vessels and inhibiting inflammatory processes. It is widely used in the treatment of chronic venous insufficiency, edema, hematomas, and inflammation.
Aescin also has a venotonic effect, meaning it seals and strengthens blood vessels, improves vein wall tension, increases capillary strength, and stabilizes microcirculation. The result of its action is fewer "spider veins," a reduced tendency to erythema, and better tolerance for couperose and sensitive skin. By stabilizing blood vessel walls, aescin is effective in cosmetics for skin with visible capillaries and sensitive skin.Additionally, aescin exhibits anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. It inhibits inflammatory mediators, reduces congestion, and helps calm irritated skin more quickly. Cosmetics containing aescin soothe skin irritation and redness.
Its antioxidant properties are also increasingly emphasized – it supports skin protection against oxidative stress and free radicals.
Aescin in cosmetics – where can we find it?
Aescin is particularly valued in cosmetics that improve microcirculation and reduce swelling. Regularly used, it can support skin oxygenation, improve its tone, and contribute to a fresher, more rested appearance. Aescin is used in topical preparations (gels, skin applications).
It is most commonly found:
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in eye creams and gels – helps reduce puffiness and dark circles,
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in leg preparations – provides relief for feelings of heaviness and swelling,
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in anti-cellulite cosmetics – supports drainage and microcirculation,
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in couperose and sensitive skin care – strengthens vessels and soothes redness.
Horse chestnut extract in cosmetics is one of the most valued ingredients in skin care. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory, anti-edematous, and blood vessel-sealing properties, horse chestnut has gained immense popularity in cosmetology. You can find aescin in our Eye cream - from the Miorelaxant Magic™ line, where it strengthens the skin, reduces dark circles under the eyes, and, most importantly, reduces puffiness.
Sirtori CR. Aescin: pharmacology, pharmacokinetics and therapeutic profile. Pharmacol Res. 2001 Sep;44(3):183-93. doi: 10.1006/phrs.2001.0847. PMID: 11529685.
Gallelli L. Escin: a review of its anti-edematous, anti-inflammatory, and venotonic properties. Drug Des Devel Ther. 2019 Sep 27;13:3425-3437. doi: 10.2147/DDDT.S207720. PMID: 31631970; PMCID: PMC6776292.
