In the world of dermocosmetics, few ingredients have achieved such fame as hyaluronic acid (HA). For years touted as a "magic sponge" that retains water in the skin, it has become the foundation of hydration. However, as researchers and conscious skincare enthusiasts, we know that a single term encompasses a whole spectrum of molecules with radically different effects.
What exactly is hyaluronic acid?
Before we get to Daltons, we need to understand the nature of the molecule itself. Hyaluronic acid isn't an "acid" in the common, exfoliating sense. It's a linear polysaccharide, specifically a glycosaminoglycan (GAG), that occurs naturally in our bodies—from synovial fluid, through the vitreous humor of the eye, to the dermis, where it serves as a key component of the extracellular matrix (ECM).
Chemically, HA consists of repeating disaccharide units: D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine , linked by alternating beta-1,4 and beta-1,3 glycosidic bonds. What makes it unique is its polyanionic nature at physiological pH. Each unit has a carboxyl group that attracts cations (primarily sodium), followed by massive amounts of water. One HA molecule can bind up to 1,000 times its own weight in water.
In the skin, hyaluronic acid not only fills the spaces between collagen and elastin fibers, giving skin volume (the plumping effect ), but also regulates nutrient transport and repair processes. Unfortunately, with age (and exposure to UV radiation), enzymes called hyaluronidases and free radicals degrade our natural HA, and its production drastically declines. This is where cosmetology comes into play.
How is hyaluronic acid made?
The history of commercial hyaluronic acid production is a fascinating journey from nature to advanced biotechnology. Initially, HA was obtained through extraction methods from animal tissues, most commonly rooster combs. Although this method yielded an acid of very high molecular weight, it carried the risk of protein contamination and allergic reactions, not to mention ethical issues.
Today, the standard for the production of pharmaceutical- and cosmetic-grade hyaluronic acid, which we also use in our products, is microbial biofermentation . The acid does not need to be additionally "encoded" in bacteria because safe strains of bacteria, most often from the Streptococcus genus (e.g., Streptococcus zooepidemicus ), naturally produce HA as part of their protective coating. After fermentation, the acid is separated from the bacterial biomass and repeatedly purified. To obtain fractions of a specific length, it is subjected to a process of hydrolysis (enzymatic or chemical), which precisely "cuts" the chains into smaller pieces.
Thanks to biofermentation, we obtain a product of the highest purity, vegan and completely biocompatible with human skin.
Size Matters: The Daltons' Dilemma
In polymer chemistry, molecular weight is expressed in daltons (Da) or kilodaltons (kDa) . This parameter determines whether a given cosmetic will merely "coat" your skin from the outside or actually affect its metabolism.
For years, high molecular weight hydroxypropyl ...
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HMW (High Molecular Weight): Creates a hydrophilic "dressing", prevents TDWL (transepidermal water loss).
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MMW (Medium Molecular Weight): Works within the upper layers of the epidermis, improving immediate hydration.
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LMW (Low Molecular Weight): Begins to reach deeper layers, supporting the lipid barrier.
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ULMW (Ultra-Low Molecular Weight) – These are molecules so small that they penetrate the epidermal barrier, reaching places where they can stimulate biological processes.
Our formulas focus on ultra-low molecular weight acids with a mass of 8–15 kDa . This is not a random choice. It precisely addresses the skin's physiological needs.
1. Penetration of the skin barrier
A major challenge in cosmetology is the epidermal barrier, designed by nature to keep out anything from the outside. Molecules above 500 Da have difficulty penetrating. However, research has shown that, thanks to their specific conformation, HA chains below 20 kDa have the ability to squeeze through intercellular spaces. The 8-15 kDa fraction penetrates the skin much deeper than standard "low molecular weight" HA (typically 50-100 kDa).[1]
2. The "Bio-stimulator" effect
This is where the real science happens. 8-15 kDa hyaluronic acid not only delivers moisture but also acts as a signaling molecule . It binds to CD44 receptors found on the surface of keratinocytes. This interaction "trick[s]" the skin into sending a signal to repair itself and produce its own, endogenous hyaluronic acid. It's the difference between giving someone a fish (HMW-HA) and learning to fish (our ULMW-HA). [3]
3. Strengthening tight junctions
In vitro studies suggest that ultra-low molecular weight HA increases the expression of proteins that form tight junctions in the epidermis (such as occludin and claudin-1). This makes the skin more airtight "from the inside," which in the long run reduces sensitivity and the tendency to dry out.
4. Wrinkle reduction and texture improvement
Thanks to its deep penetration, this fraction has a real impact on the skin's mechanical elasticity. By filling the epidermal matrix at lower levels, this acid pushes out fine lines from within, producing a smoothing effect that no high-molecular-weight acid can achieve.[2]
The INCI list for hyaluronic acid is Sodium Hyaluronate . You'll find it in every product in our Miorelaxant Magic line.
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Essendoubi M, Gobinet C, Reynaud R, Angiboust JF, Manfait M, Piot O. Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as probed by Raman spectroscopy. Skin Res Technol. 2016 Feb;22(1):55-62. doi: 10.1111/srt.12228. Epub 2015 Apr 16. PMID: 25877232.
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Pavicic T, Gauglitz GG, Lersch P, Schwach-Abdellaoui K, Malle B, Korting HC, Farwick M. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. J Drugs Dermatol. 2011 Sep;10(9):990-1000. PMID: 22052267.
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Kaya G, Tran C, Sorg O, Hotz R, Grand D, Carraux P, Didierjean L, Stamenkovic I, Saurat JH. Hyaluronate fragments reverse skin atrophy by a CD44-dependent mechanism. PLoS Med. 2006 Dec;3(12):e493. doi: 10.1371/journal.pmed.0030493. PMID: 17177600; PMCID: PMC1702558.
