There are ingredients whose popularity stems from trends, and there are those that have endured for millennia — not because someone promoted them well, but because they genuinely work. Sweet almond oil falls into the latter category. Before anyone even coined the word "cosmetic," women in ancient China, Persia, and the Mediterranean basin used it to moisturize their skin, treat breakouts, and soothe dryness. Today, with laboratories equipped with tools ancient scholars could not have imagined, they confirm the very same things that tradition passed down through generations.
Prunus dulcis (syn. Prunus amygdalus var. dulcis)
— an almond tree from the rose family (Rosaceae), cultivated primarily in the Mediterranean basin, California, and Australia. The oil extracted from the seeds of the sweet variety, unlike the bitter variety containing amygdalin, is safe for cosmetic and food use.
History buried in kernels
Almond trees appeared in Western Asia thousands of years ago. Their kernels were found in pharaohs' tombs, and Ayurvedic texts describe badam tel — almond oil — as a rejuvenating and skin-strengthening agent. Ancient Greco-Persian medicine used it topically to treat psoriasis and eczema, which was meticulously documented in later historical reviews. As Tewari and Bhanu wrote in a 2010 review published in Complementary Therapies in Clinical Practice, almond oil was valued for centuries in traditional healing systems for its anti-inflammatory and emollient properties, although the availability of rigorous clinical trials was, of course, different then than it is today.
A significant breakthrough occurred only in the 20th and 21st centuries, when chemists and dermatologists began to apply the same analytical tools to almond oil that they used for synthetic compounds. And it was then that it became clear that the popularity of this oil is not sentiment — it has a very specific, biochemical justification.
From orchard to bottle – how oil is made
Sweet almond oil is obtained from dried almond kernels by cold pressing. This process — though known since antiquity in its simplest form — is precisely controlled today. Almonds are shelled and then sent to mechanical presses, where the temperature usually does not exceed 40–50°C. This is crucial because higher temperatures degrade sensitive compounds, particularly tocopherols and polyunsaturated fatty acids. Virgin oil remains cloudy and golden — before hitting the market, it is usually filtered, but not subjected to chemical refining.
In recent years, researchers have been experimenting with new extraction methods. A review article by Ouzira et al. published in 2021 in Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety precisely describes how supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO2) extraction allows for obtaining oil with higher purity and better preserved bioactive ingredients than traditional mechanical pressing. The method does not require organic solvents, is a cold process, and is environmentally friendly. Although currently expensive and relatively niche on an industrial scale, it represents the direction in which modern production of premium cosmetic oils is heading.
Biochemical profile that explains everything
To understand why sweet almond oil works the way it does, one must look at its composition. And it is truly remarkable in its simplicity and effectiveness.
The dominant component is oleic acid — a monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid, constituting 62 to over 76% of the composition (values vary depending on the variety and growing conditions, as meticulously documented by genetic studies conducted on 31 almond genotypes). Oleic acid is physiologically similar to sebum — the natural secretion of sebaceous glands — which allows it to penetrate the stratum corneum without feeling greasy and supports the lipid integrity of the epidermis. Alongside it is linoleic acid (omega-6), whose share ranges from a dozen to almost 30% — an essential unsaturated fatty acid, crucial for ceramide synthesis and epidermal barrier function.
What it really does for the skin — proven action
For a long time, knowledge about almond oil was based mainly on observations and tradition. However, the last decade has brought a series of clinical studies and systematic reviews that allow us to speak about the action of this oil with greater precision.
"The benefits of using almond oil have been well documented both preclinically and clinically — it is an effective ingredient in cosmetic formulations that strengthen the integrity of the stratum corneum and the proportions of its lipids."
This sentence comes from a review published in 2022 in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science by Blaak and Staib — one of the most comprehensive analyses of available data concerning three classic cosmetic oils: almond, evening primrose, and jojoba. The authors emphasize that although clinical data are not free from methodological heterogeneities, the overall picture is clear: sweet almond oil effectively strengthens the epidermal barrier and improves the hydration of dry and sensitive skin.
The key mechanism is the replenishment of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum can be imagined as a wall: corneocytes are bricks, and lipids (ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol) are the mortar that binds them and prevents water loss. When the barrier is damaged, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) increases, and the skin becomes dry, sensitive, and prone to irritation. Oleic and linoleic acids from almond oil penetrate between corneocytes and replenish this lipid mortar, which physically reduces TEWL and restores the elasticity of the stratum corneum.
It is worth mentioning a 2018 clinical study, published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, in which a cream containing 7% almond oil and 2% colloidal oats proved safe and effective in treating moderate to severe contact hand dermatitis — a condition in which a damaged epidermal barrier is the central problem. Patients observed significant improvement in hydration and reduction of symptoms after just a few weeks of regular use.
A separate chapter is dedicated to its anti-inflammatory action. Linoleic acid and phytosterols inhibit the release of pro-inflammatory mediators, which explains the empirically observed effectiveness of the oil in alleviating the symptoms of atopic dermatitis, eczema, and psoriasis. Importantly, almond oil acts not symptomatically here—by covering redness—but at a cellular level, limiting the inflammatory cascade.
Studies on pregnancy stretch marks (striae gravidarum) also hold a significant place in the literature. In a double-blind clinical trial conducted on 160 pregnant women, published in the Journal of Maternal-Fetal and Neonatal Medicine in 2018 (Hajhashemi et al.), a cream with almond oil proved more effective than a base cream in reducing itching, redness, and inhibiting the spread of stretch marks on the abdominal skin. The effect was statistically significant. Almond oil — by combining emollient action with increased skin elasticity — reduces tissue tension during intense circumference growth, which directly translates into a lower risk of new lesion formation.
Sweet almond oil is exceptionally versatile in its formulation. It acts as a standalone body and face oil, a base for serum, an ingredient in moisturizing creams, a massage oil, and even a gentle makeup remover oil. It blends well with other oils — especially argan, rosehip, and jojoba — creating mixtures with a richer profile of bioactive ingredients. The oil's comedogenicity is low, making it suitable even for combination skin, though as always — individual skin reaction is the best guide.
1. Blaak J., Staib P. An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose and jojoba oils in skin care applications. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2022;44:1–9. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12758
2. Hajhashemi M. et al. The effect of Aloe vera gel and sweet almond oil on striae gravidarum in nulliparous women. Journal of Maternal-Fetal & Neonatal Medicine. 2018;31(13):1703–1708. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/14767058.2017.1325865
3. Ouzir M. et al. Almond oil: a comprehensive review of chemical composition, extraction methods, preservation conditions, potential health benefits, and safety. Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety. 2021;20(4):3344–3387. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/1541-4337.12752
4. Tewari S., Bhanu P. The uses and properties of almond oil. Complementary Therapies in Clinical Practice. 2010;16(1):10–12. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ctcp.2009.06.015
5. Draelos Z.D. et al. The use of an over-the-counter hand cream with sweet almond oil for the treatment of hand dermatitis. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. 2018;17(1):78–82. PubMed: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29320591/
