Communication is key - even among skin cells.
The skin is a living organism, a complex community of cells. As in any community, individual cells perform specialized functions and play diverse roles in maintaining the skin's proper functioning. Fibroblasts build its structural framework, producing collagen and elastin, keratinocytes form the outer protective barrier, and melanocytes act as a biological umbrella, shielding the cells' DNA from harmful radiation.
Peptides act as information transmitters between cells. Thanks to them, cells can respond quickly to critical situations, including skin damage. Signal peptides play a particular role, initiating and coordinating the biological response. A disruption in the skin's structure triggers a rapid cascade of events leading to repair processes.
Matrykina
In the natural biological environment, this process relies on the action of matrikines. This term was introduced into the scientific literature in 1999 by the team of Professor François-Xavier Maquart from the University of Reims in France. Researchers demonstrated that the breakdown products of the extracellular matrix (ECM) are not merely metabolic waste products but act as bioactive regulators of cellular processes.
This mechanism is based on the principle of feedback:
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External factors (e.g. UV, inflammation) or internal factors (aging) damage collagen fibers.
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Enzymes cut damaged proteins into smaller fragments – peptides (matrikines).
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These fragments bind to specific receptors on the surface of fibroblasts.
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The cell receives a message to repair damage and rebuild collagen.
It is this mechanism that has become the foundation of modern peptide cosmetology.
Peptide engineering
Scientists asked themselves: Can we deliver this signal from the outside without having to destroy our own collagen?
This is how biomimetic peptides were created – laboratory-reproduced amino acid sequences designed to precisely interact with cell receptors. However, effective peptide action requires penetration through the epidermal barrier, which poses a significant challenge, as even small, hydrophilic peptides have limited skin penetration capacity.
Therefore, in modern raw materials such as Matrixyl, a palmitic acid residue is added to the peptide chain. This acts as a kind of "Trojan horse," giving the molecule a lipophilic character and enabling it to effectively penetrate deep into the skin.
Synergy of two molecules
One of the most researched peptide complexes in the world is Matrixyl 3000. Unlike its predecessor – the classic Matrixyl based on a single pentapeptide – version 3000 is a synergistic combination of two matrikines.
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Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (Pal-GHK) is a fragment of the type I collagen chain, whose function is to stimulate fibroblasts to synthesize glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and collagen, which leads to strengthening of the skin structure.
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Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (Pal-GQPR) mimics a fragment of immunoglobulin G and has a unique function of modulating inflammatory processes by inhibiting the secretion of interleukin-6 (IL-6). Chronic inflammation, referred to as inflammation-aging, is one of the main causes of skin structural degradation and accelerated aging.
In vitro and in vivo studies confirm the effectiveness of this duo. Studies published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science and the manufacturer's clinical materials (Sederma) have shown that using Matrixyl 3000 for two months led to significant cosmetic effects, including a reduction in wrinkle depth by up to 45% and an improvement in skin firmness by nearly 20%.
Importantly, Schagen’s research (2017) indicates that signal peptides are a safe alternative to retinoids, not causing irritation, while maintaining high effectiveness in stimulating collagen synthesis [1].
What to look for in the ingredients (INCI)?
If you're looking to incorporate this science-based mechanism into your skincare routine, don't look for "Matrixyl," which is a trade name, but rather pay attention to the product's ingredients (INCI). An effective formula based on Matrixyl 3000 should contain both compounds: Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7.
You will find this complex in our Miorelaxant Magic™ Rich Cream , which we created with a holistic approach to skin regeneration and rejuvenation in mind.
Schagen, SK "Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Results." Cosmetics (2017). doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4020016
Aldag C, Nogueira Teixeira D, Leventhal PS. Skin rejuvenation using cosmetic products containing growth factors, cytokines, and matrikines: a review of the literature. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2016 Nov 9;9:411-419. doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S116158
